AeroMarine Clear Epoxy Resin Kit for Bar Top, Counter Top, Table Top
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Product Feature
- AeroMarine 300/21 Epoxy Resin Kit
- Our best and most popular clear epoxy
- Low viscosity epoxy 600cps
- Non Blushing Epoxy with Cycloaliphatic Hardener. No amine blush so no cleaning required between coats
- Excellent gloss and clarity, and excellent chemical resistance
Product Description
Clear Epoxy Resin. 3 Gallon Bartop Epoxy / Countertop Epoxy / Tabletop Epoxy. Total yield of 3 Gallons Clear Epoxy. Consists of two gallons of #300 resin and one gallon of #21 Non Blushing Cycloaliphatic Hardener. NOTE: Color in containers varies. However, the epoxy dries clear. Our best and most popular clear epoxy resin. It is ideal for most functions: Boat and aircraft building, poured countertops and general fiberglass and carbon fiber laminating. Great for building a 'Stitch and Glue' boat, Cedar strip kayak or canoe as well as for cold molded wood boat or fiberglass boats. This multifunctional epoxy is also used for pebble paving, pebble resurfacing, pebble repair, and pebble or stone decking. And automotive enthusiasts use it for laminating carbon fiber parts including hoods, dashes, etc. NOTE: Our epoxy is NOT UV resistant and will yellow in sunlight. The 1.5, 3 and 6 gallon kits are available with handy metering pumps. It is also useful for poured countertops, bar tops and table tops; and even making jewelry. The mix ratio is a simple 2:1 by either weight or volume. AeroMarine 300/21 is a thin, clear liquid. It has a working life of about 30 minutes, and sets hard in a few hours. Work life: 30 minutes@70F. Cure time: 24 hours@70F. NOTE: THIS PRODUCT IS NOT ELIGIBLE FOR AMAZON FREE SHIPPING.AeroMarine Clear Epoxy Resin Kit for Bar Top, Counter Top, Table Top Review
This worked EXACTLY as advertised. I followed the directions, which are easy, to the letter. I used it to coat a stepping-stone with two coats and placed shiny new pennies on the first coat after it cured so they would "float" above the stone. It looks Awesome. That was a test. Next, my homemade kitchen table." Here are some pointers.1.) I purchased a "marked" mixing bucket at Lowe's for $2 that allowed me to measure and mix exact amounts.
2.) I purchased a cheap 6" plastic putty knife at Lowe's and snipped 1/8 inch teeth into it allowing me to spread the resin to the same thickness evenly. (I could not find a 6" plastic scraper with teeth already in it except for the metal "mastic" trows for spreading adhesive. I just didn't want to use metal for fear of scratching my nice wood"
3.) I purchased a "stir stick" made of plastic so no wood splinters could get into the mix and got one with holes in it to allow the mixture to flow while stirring.
4.) I mixed twice as long as I thought would work, so both ingredients were well incorporated
5.) I used a self-igniting propane torch to remove ALL bubbles after applying and spreading the coat. A back and forth sweep about 8 inches from the surface.
6.) I sealed the concrete with spray polyurethane two days prior to ensure the resin would not bubble when absorbed.
7.) I allowed the resin to sit undisturbed for 24 hours before applying the second coat.
8.) I used a large room (to reduce dust) that was well ventilated, though there was really no odor.
9.) I used examination gloves I got from the doctor on my last visit.
10.) I put down a tarp, quad folded, under the work as there will be drips.
11.) I used a level to ensure the resin would not "pool" to one side. For a stand, I used a plastic 30-gal trash-can with no lid and pulled the table to one side or the other using its weight to level it out when at rest. The table top is 48"x48" and the trash can kept it stable enough to work on. I used a 5-gal feed bucket for the stepping stone.
Good luck with your project. :) Below are examples of the tools I used.
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